The 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Boisrenard (60% Grenache and 40% other varietals from 60- to 100-year-old vines) reveals a hint of toasty vanillin from its aging in small oak, but I have been buying these wines for many years, and that characteristic usually disappears by age 7 or 8. This dense ruby/purple-tinged, round, generous, plump, succulent effort reveals hints of graphite, black currants, blackberries and kirsch. Heady as well as softer than most vintages tend to be at this age, with admirable concentration, purity and texture, it should drink nicely for 10-15 years. One of the great old families of Chateauneuf du Pape, the Coulons have been biodynamically farming their vineyards for decades, which can’t be easy given the fact that they own over two dozen parcels spread throughout the appellation. The 2009s performed even better this year than they did last year prior to bottling. Both 2010s were primary and extremely young. Having tasted in Chateauneuf du Pape at the same time of year (usually 11-12 months after the harvest) for many years, few vintages seemed as young and primary as 2010 (others were 2007 and 1998).Importers: A Christopher Cannan Selection, Europvin; Lauber Imports, Somerville, NJ; tel. (908) 725-2100 and Ruby Wines, Avon, MA; tel. (508) 588-7007
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