Voerzio’s 2007 Barolo Cerequio is a wonderful counter to the virile, imposing Brunate. Sweet red fruit, flowers and menthol are woven into a nuanced, textured fabric of notable class and elegance. The Cerequio possesses dazzling inner perfume, silky tannins and phenomenal length. It is a stunning, beautifully articulated Barolo blessed with tons of intensity and compelling overall balance. A final burst of red berries informs the long, explosive, perfumed finish. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027.
This is a stunning set of wines from Roberto Voerzio. I have been following Voerzio’s 2007s for several years, and now that they are in bottle they are every bit as magical as I had hoped they would be. Stylistically, the 2007s are most reminiscent of the 2004s, but with more fruit. Although the wines should be cellared for at least a few years, readers who can’t resist the urge to taste them now should open their bottles at least a few hours in advance. Voerzio’s passion, his ability to make fabulous, ageworthy wines even in the smallest of vintages, and his total commitment to quality, even over a period of years that have been very difficult on a personal level place him at the pinnacle of achievement among the world’s most gifted winemakers. The financial resources needed to acquire these wines are significant. With the exception of a transitionary period in the mid 1990s, every wine I have tasted and bought from these cellars since 1988 has been brilliant, and many have been profound. Vintage 2007 is the last to have been aged exclusively in French oak, beginning in 2008 all of the Baroli are aged in equal parts cask and French oak, the approach Voerzio used for his wines through 1993. As we were going to press I learned that Roberto Voerzio's wife, Pinuccia, lost her battle with a long illness. I met Pinuccia several times, always on the run, but she was always kind and gracious, even when she had every reason not to be. At 55 she was far too young to have left behind a loving family. I have had many memorable tastings at the winery, but by far the most memorable was in November 2009, when the Voerzios opened several dozen wines that pretty much spanned their entire career. As I was leaving, I stopped, as I always do, to look at the beautiful collage of photos that hangs in the tasting room. It is a moving chronology full of pictures of a young Roberto and Pinuccia in their vineyards and in other happy moments of their life together. A song by the famous Italian singer Antonello Venditti was playing on the radio. I could feel it was a special moment. I just didn't know how special. I know I am joined by all of our readers in offering the Voerzio family our deepest condolences.
A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620
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