Representing a single barrel, from vines he says were planted in 1898 and which "while they might be old, are still in great form," Laurent's 2006 Pommard Les Epenots Vieilles Vignes displays an unusually intense cyanic, fruit bit concentration and iodine minerality whose common bitterness is balanced by diverse berry fruit of exceptional, almost port-like, desiccated concentration and sweetness. Yet, there is lift and vivacity here (and only 13.5% alcohol), as well as exceptional refinement of tannins, and practically endless, caressing length. Regardless of what one knows about Laurent's methods or has been told about these pre-phylloxera vines, just tasting this wine brings to mind thoughts of what Burgundy might have been like – and is often said to have been like – a century ago. "It's a Pinot from another world," remarks Laurent, evidently anticipating my thoughts. If I could, I'd want to follow this assiduously for at least 12-15 years. But assuming I had only a very few bottles to my name, I would want to wait half that long before opening the first of them.
Dominique Laurent – whose methodology I attempted to clarify in a bit more detail in my report for issue 171 – purchased fewer wines in 2006 (not all of which I tasted) than he had in 2005, particularly at the lower end of the classificatory spectrum and in the Cote de Beaune. On the other hand, there were some correspondingly sweet opportunities, he noted, to expand acquisitions in top-notch crus due to initial hesitation of many negociants to buy heavily into this vintage. Laurent was highly enthusiastic about the quality of the wines he did raise, which in the glass often proved even more infectious than his enthusiasm – and that's saying something! What's more, although these wines – generally produced in 50-250 case quantities – have a reputation for high prices, most of these 2006s – especially in their upper-echelons – strike me as exhibiting excellent price:quality rapport. While absence of chaptalization and absence of sulfur during the elevage remain constant features this year, less of the wine Laurent purchased and raised from 2006 was vinified with stems than in most years. Vieilles Vignes," incidentally, is used like a brand name chez Laurent, referring to all of his better wines, whereas his "Tradition" line – none of which I tasted – consists of cuvees rendered in slightly larger volumes and exclusively for the French market. Since the words "Vieilles Vignes" are prominently displayed on the label, I have included them as part of each wine's description, although one will often see Laurent's same top wines referred to without that designation.
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