With Elvis Presley singing Hound Dog in the background, I tasted from the two tanks containing the assembled final blend of the 1997 Chateau Fuisse Pouilly-Fuisse Vieilles Vignes. To my surprise, as well as to the consternation of the owners, each tank contained a distinctly different wine (previously these cuvees were blended before being placed in the cement tanks to await bottling). Both wines were qualitative equals, but had different textures and flavor profiles. The first revealed a somewhat muted stoney nose as well as a magnificently focused, vibrant, and intense core of salty minerals. The second, significantly oilier, offered flavors reminiscent of a hazelnut cream cake brushed with touches of lime juice. The owners were not sure if they should re-blend the two, fine or filter them again, or bottle them as is. Projected maturity: 2002-2008.
Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel (212) 355-0700.
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