The 1990 Pouilly-Fuisse-Vieilles Vignes is a worthy rival to the powerful 1989. Rich, alcoholic, and heady, it displays gobs of fruit, and sensational extraction of flavor.
Many consumers tend to ignore Pouilly-Fuisse, but there are producers, such as Chateau Fuisse and Madame Ferret, in this appellation who are making wines that rival the best from Burgundy's Cote d'Or. Chateau Fuisse is one of them.
Chateau Fuisse is irrefutably the most famous domaine in southern Burgundy. Its top cuvees of Pouilly-Fuisse, which are, justifiably, legendary, now fetch astonishingly high prices of $35-$55 a bottle. While that price may appear appalling, I can think of numerous white burgundies from the Cote d'Or that sell for higher prices, but deliver far less quality. Chateau Fuisse would appear to have had success in both 1989 and 1990. Admittedly, the 1989s are more opulent, more alcoholic, lower in acidity, and clearly blockbuster white burgundies. The 1990s tend to be slightly more floral, with higher acidity, yet without the weight of the 1989s. So, depending on your tastebuds, there is plenty to choose from.
Importer: Frederick Wildman and Co., New York, NY.