Lesec, never one to make things simple, produces multiple cuvees of Gigondas. The 2001 Gigondas Les Espalines was aged in equal parts barrel (20% new) and old wood foudres. The blend is 70% Grenache and 30% Mourvedre. The latter component enjoys carbonic maceration, which gives the wine more fruit without the ferocious tannin Mourvedre can sometimes impart. The dark ruby-colored 2001 reveals a firm, structured, austere character, but the longer the wine sits in the mouth, the more the weight seems to build, and the wealth of raw materials becomes more impressive. Still disjointed and backward, it appears to be a candidate for 10-12 years of aging, although it should be accessible by age 3-4. A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998-0029, Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 469-5799, Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901, and Associated Wine Distributors, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-8048
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