The 2008 Viognier contains 17.5% Roussanne aged sur lie with batonnage for 5 months in 27% new oak. Medium straw-colored, it displays a nose of buttered popcorn, peach, apricot, lemon zest and melon. This is followed by a smooth-textured, concentrated wine with good volume, balance, and a fruit-filled finish. Drink this tasty effort over the next 3 years. Annette Bergevin and Amber Lane continue to turn out excellent wines at very fair prices from their Walla Walla-based winery.Tel. (509) 526-4300; www.bergevinlane.com

Bergevin Lane’s newest Viognier seems to reflect some of the difficulties of the 2008 vintage, as noted in the winery’s tasting notes. As a component of the Calico, the Viognier works wonderfully well, but here it is just a little bitter and thin. This is a young white wine that will reward decanting. ——P.G.(12/1/2009)—— 87