The 2003 Dry Red Wine No. 1 (80% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, etc.) exhibits a deep ruby color along with attractive cedary, earthy, red and black fruits, loamy soil, and dried herb characteristics, and a spicy, heady finish with plenty of glycerin (although the alcohol is only 12.5% on the label). It is a structured, big, distinctive Australian red boasting loads of complexity and character. It should drink well for a decade. This artisinal winery produces what must be the most idiosyncratic/eccentric wines of Australia. They can be absolutely spectacular, or they can be distressingly irregular, one never knows which until the cork is pulled. I suspect if the late recluse of Chateauneuf du Pape, Jacques Reynaud, were reincarnated in Australia, he might be making the wines at this backwater address. Importer: Gavin Speight, Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 258-9552

Doesn’t taste like much of anything else out of Australia, and that’s a good thing. Smells like smoke and pencil shavings, with wood dominating the palate in the form of tree bark or bramble. Has a bit of a citrusy tang midpalate, its plum fruit finally coming through on the finish. An oddball now, but will likely have a few surprises in store in 3–6 years. ——D.T.(10/1/2006)—— 89