The 1996 Barolo Riserva Ca’ d’Morissio, with more classic aromas and flavors, is the perfect foil to the 1997. Boasting a dark ruby hue, it shows a captivating, well-delineated nose that suggests roses, violets and minerals, along with densely packed layers of primary black cherry fruit on a big, structured frame of notable length, with much purity and imposing tannins. Though not especially expressive today, my sense is that this wine is holding back much of its potential and it will be a fascinating effort to follow, although readers will have to be especially patient with this wine. Sadly, within just a few vintages it has become priced in the stratosphere. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2031. Importer: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404 and The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484