The two bottles opened for this report were both totally shut down and impossible to judge, which struck me as unusual. One of my all-time favorite Chateauneuf du Papes is their 1990 Cuvee du Papet, and I thought the 1998 had a chance to behave in that manner, never closing down and always being drinkable. This wine exhibits a dark plum/ruby color, with hints of garrigue, new saddle leather, tapenade and kirsch, but it shuts down tight in the mouth. It is medium to full-bodied, has weight, purity, and richness, but it is just not singing. No matter how much aeration I gave it, nothing seemed to come forward, making judgment virtually impossible. Whatever the reason for it, I thought this was just bizarre. The mysteries of wine - may they never end!
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