The 2008 Costers Vi de Guarda is a blend of 50% Carinena, 30% Garnacha, 10% Merlot and 10% Syrah from nearly 100-year-old vines that yield just 300 grams per vine, hence there are only 2,500 bottles produced. Again, the essence of terroir and vine age is obfuscated by strong oak aromas that dominate the profile. The palate has a sweet, red cherry and liquorice-infused entry with crisp, tensile tannins. The oak is still palpable, although one can discern an attractive, smooth star anise-tinged finish. I would afford this wine two or three years in bottle and hope that the oak subsumes on the nose. Drink 2014-2018+.
Genium Celler was formed in 2002 when six families pooled their resources. Together, they own 15 hectares of vine located in Poboleda, La Morera and Torroja, of which 3 hectares are farmed organically. The main focus is upon Garnacha and Carinena, complemented by Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. I found their wines to be unashamedly modern in style, generally well-crafted and for the most part, avoiding the overbearing nature and uncontained alcohol of some of their peers.
Importer: Aurelio Cabestrero, Grapes of Spain, Lorton, VA; tel. (571) 642-0343
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