The 2017 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has turned out very well indeed, wafting from the glass with a lovely bouquet of dark wild berries, smoked meats, incense, spices and dark chocolate that's framed by a lavish but nicely integrated application of high-quality new oak. On the palate, it's full-bodied, deep and velvety, with a layered and impressively concentrated core, melting tannins and a long, sapid finish. It's one of the highlights of Faiveley's red portfolio this year, punching above its weight in the usual hierarchy.