Steve Leveque, the winemaker at Chalk Hill, is doing everything right. Everything he touches is gold, including Cabernet. The ’03 is extraordinarily balanced and beautiful, a dry, ripe wine of power and full-bodied substance, but enormous subtlety. The cassis fruit meshes seamlessly with toasty new oak to produce compellingly complex flavors. Drink now through 2010. ——S.H.(12/15/2006)—— 94