Compared to a lush Napa Cab, this has a distinct green olive and French-cured olive character. It must be the terroir, but oak, toasted and spicy, plays an important part. Finally, there’s Cabernet’s inherent currant flavor. The wine is thoroughly dry and balanced, with smooth tannins. It’s a unique Cabernet, but in its own way, very fine.——S.H.(12/1/2005)—— 90