Domaine Alice et Olivier de Moor Chablis Bel Air et Clardys, Burgundy, France

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The De Moor 2007 Chablis Bel Air & Clardy – from the two named parcels, and raised in almost entirely older barriques (as is the norm for the entire De Moor range) – is almost as uncompromisingly bright and palpably dense as the corresponding Bourgogne Chitry. High-toned lemon oil and kirsch aromas are mingled with pungent suggestions of wood smoke in the nose, and toasted nuts lend low-toned richness to a blazingly citric palate, in which a positively shimmering interchange with salt, chalk, and fruit pit elements rivets ones attention. That this harbors only 12.2% alcohol enhances its sense of lift and refreshment, but also its sense of sharpness. This is a striking and, in a sense, classic expression of Chablis, but one for lovers of acidity and mineral impressions. I expect it will be worth following for at least 4-5 years. Beginning their harvest in mid-September, the De Moors made two passes on nearly every parcel to adapt to irregular ripening that was a legacy of hail. The upshot was thus another labor-intensive and low-yielding vintage, but there the similarities with 2006 end, as the character of the De Moor 2007s is strikingly different; and they are more consistently excellent.Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191