Boillot's 1993s are lean, tart, compact wines with high acidity, excessively low PH's, and enough tannin to warrant caution. To borrow from the famous hamburger advertisement of a few years ago, "where's the beef?" The only wine I can recommend is the Volnay-Pitures. Like the other offerings, it possesses structure and tannin, but there is also sweet, ripe Pinot fruit in this medium-bodied, compact, tasty wine. It needs 1-2 years of cellaring and should keep for a decade.
This producer's domaine has grown in both quantity and quality. The white wines possess more life than the processed, compact reds, but Boillot is using a more cautious hand in terms of interventionist techniques that can rob Pinot Noir of its subtleness. Will he exploit this estate's considerable potential?
Importer: Vineyard Brands, Chester, VT; tel. (802) 875-2139
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