Tasting through Bernard Morey's opulent, fruit-driven 1997s was a joy. His medium-to-dark ruby-colored 1997 Santenay Grand Clos Rousseau displays aromas reminiscent of perfumed cherry jam dusted with baby powder (talc). It is a medium-to-full-bodied, immensely ripe, powerful, and expansive fruit bomb. This opulent and sultry offering is crammed with black cherries whose flavors linger for up to 30 seconds in the finish. Drink this beauty over the next 4-5 years. Importers: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802 and Louis/Dressner Selections, Long Island City, NY; tel (718) 433-4781.