From largely 50-year-old (but some ancient) vines in parcels north of town, below Mazis, and along the route nationale, the 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Coeur du Roi offers striking bitter black fruit concentration and marrow-like meatiness. Low-toned cassis, blackberry, black chocolate, marrow and wet stone inform a finish of striking purity and persistence, albeit in a rather somber key and wearing its extract, abundant if fine tannins, and new wood in rather obvious fashion. The rather monolithic impression on this occasion might ultimately prove deceptive. Certainly this wine’s sheer raw intensity suggests a decade or more of cellaring is warranted. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800.