Aromas of dark chocolate, grilled game bird, rich soil and soy introduce the 1998 Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru les Vaucrains, a full-bodied, ample wine with a broad-shouldered structural frame of very fine grained but firm, chewy tannins that carry lots of matter and substance. Layered and complete, it's still 5-6 years away from truly melting, but the wine is very impressive.
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