There’s a rusticity here that’s partly a function of Zin’s wild, brambly nature, and partly due to a raisiny sweet finish. On the plus side is a rich, round mouthfeel and delicious cherry, cranberry and mocha fruit and spice. The September harvest heat wave must have been a huge challenge, even for talented grapegrowers such as the Duttons. ——S.H.(10/1/2006)—— 85