Drunk from magnum, Lamy's 1996 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière is evolving gracefully, mingling aromas of orange rind and lemon oil with hints of iodine and dried white flowers. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, chiseled and racy, with a bright spine of acidity and chalky back-end grip. This reflects an entirely different era in Lamy's winemaking, but it's still showing well today, even if it can't match the quality of recent vintages.
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