Given the striking distinction of other Diel wines in this vintage from this site – especially an extraordinary “regular” Auslese – I approached the auction-destined 2011 Dorsheimer Pittermannchen Riesling Auslese gold capsule with high hopes and expectations. What I found was a wine that departs from the common denominators found in those predecessors. Dark honey, caramel and Rainier cherry preserves are pungently laced with crystallized ginger, cherry skin and pit, as well as a crucial modicum of fresh cherry and grapefruit, all of which serve to push-back against the sheer sweetness and confiture viscosity on display here, and leading to a sumptuously lingering finish. This should be worth following for the better part of three decades, but I’ll be surprised if it ever quite achieves the distinction of its non-gold capsule counterpart.
Caroline Diel is now the mother of two, but shows every intention and indication of personally staying on top of her estate’s viticulture. In collaboration with long-time cellarmaster Christoph Friedrich, she is both perpetuating and further refining the styles of wine that have come to characterize and enhance the long-standing reputation of Schlossgut Diel. Picking began in the last week of September and most of the top Rieslings were harvested already in the first week of October, by which point there was a significant amount of botrytis, happily largely noble, most of it picked-out in parallel with the fruit for the Grosse Gewachse. Wisely, I think – as heaven knows they have an austere side as is – the Diels elected for the sake of moderating alcohol to leave a bit more residual sugar behind this year than usual in their Grosse Gewachse.
Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300