The flint and oak-scented 1999 Chablis Les Clos is tight, light to medium-bodied, and well-balanced. This silky-textured, pear and white flower-flavored wine has good depth, yet lacks the concentration or finish for a more exalted review. Drink it over the next 5 years.
Importer: Dreyfus Ashby, New York, NY; tel (212) 818-0770.