This is a very dense, layered wine, with many intricate corners to explore. The winemaker has put on lots of lees and quite a bit of new oak, which of course adds creamy, smoky complexities. Fortunately, the underlying wine can handle it. Pure Santa Lucia Chardonnay, it’s intricate in tangerines, limes, pineapples, honeysuckle and Asian spices, with a flinty minerality. Acidity is quite high.——S.H.(6/1/2008)—— 93