This single-vineyard Chardonnay impresses for its taut structure and promise of aging. It’s totally dry, and beneath that slate and metal is a core of ripe yellow peach. Fans of blowsy Chards will find it spare, but if you like Chablis, you’ll love the complex, stony minerality. Hold until 2007.——S.H.(12/15/2005)—— 91