Time was when Rumpf looked likely to give up on Scheurebe, but his importer has helped him see the light. All of it is planted in the Dautenpflanzer or Rheinberg, but V.D.P. regulations dictate that wines from this variety not be vineyard-designated. The 2004 Scheurebe Spatlese would smell as pungently of grapefruit, jellied red currants and sage by any name. In the mouth, this is sleek and juicy, with pungent notes of grapefruit zest and resinous herbals nicely integrated with 60-some grams of sugar. The finish is surprisingly restrained for this grape variety as well as satisfyingly aromatic and juicy, with notes of stony minerality. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300