Bodegas Aster Crianza, Ribera del Duero, Spain

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The 2001 Bodegas Aster Crianza is 100% Tinta del Pais (the local clone of Tempranillo) aged for 18 months in used American oak (60%) and new French oak (40%). Dark ruby-colored, it reveals an expressive nose of pain grille, cinnamon, wild strawberry, black currants, and licorice. This is followed by a full-bodied wine with a supple texture, mouth filling, spicy black fruits, and enough structure for 3-5 years of further evolution. Drink it through 2020.Importer: Christopher Cannan, Europvin; www.europvin.com

Starts off with unusual aromas of sandalwood, bath oils and nail polish, and never does the bouquet find a true groove. But the palate is sturdy and the flavors of red plum, cherry and spice win you over once you get used to them. More unconventional than many Ribera fans might like.——M.S.(6/1/2007)—— 86