Domaine Michel Lafarge Bourgogne Pinot Noir, Burgundy, France

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Yet tarter and tighter than their Passetoutgrain, the Lafarge 2006 Bourgogne gives off rather mixed messages of sassy fresh sour cherry contrasted with marzipan and caramel. Sappy, downright refreshing fruit in the finish helps this skip lightly over its considerable tannins. I would plan to enjoy it within the next several years. Frederic and Michel Lafarge are consistently adept in challenging vintages, and succeeded admirably in 2006, harvesting from September 20 until the end of that month. To hear them tell (as well as to taste the results) their fruit was largely healthy, and sorting was principally to remove under-ripe berries and clusters. Not surprisingly, they chalk this up to vine management. "Biodynamic treatments permit the vine to overcome the stress of weather extremes," such as characterized 2006, asserts Frederic Lafarge. Michel Lafarge points out that the same – to his mind ideal – 12.5-13+% potential alcohol was reached over the same period in premier cru and non-cru sites alike, a phenomenon due in part, he believes, to his estate's high average age of vine.A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers), fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70