The single-vineyard 2008 Irpinia Falanghina Morabianca is intriguing, as layers of smoke, ash and tar dominate this sinewy white’s personality. There is tremendous complexity to be found in the glass, and this remains a very distinctive, complex Falanghina to marvel over. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2013. This is an impressive set of entry-level wines from Mastroberardino, an estate that in recent years has begun to recapture some of its past glory. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Light, fresh and perfect with appetizers or salads, Falanghina is one of the favorite easy-drinking white grapes of Southern Italy. Aromas here include white stone, lime and cantaloupe. ——M.L.(3/1/2011)—— 86