The Etang des Colombes 2007 Corbieres Vieilles Vignes Bicentenaire (a blend of Grenache, Carignan and Mourvedre) displays whiffs of scrubby southern French herbs, smoked game, and high-toned red raspberry. In the mouth, tart fruit is tinged with cocoa powder, salt, and an unanticipated noted of pencil lead, all of which follow into a long, clean, surprisingly mineral finish. I would plan to enjoy this cuvee over the next couple of years. This represents the finest group of wines I have tasted from the Gualco family, and my experience with their wines goes back more than 20 vintages.Christopher Cannan Europvin Selections (various importers), Bordeaux; fax 001-33-5 57-87-43-22