Persian and musk melons laced with peony on the nose of the Ostertag 2008 Pinot Gris Fronholz promise a ripeness and intrigue that are fulfilled on a rich, waxen-textured, yet persistently refreshing palate, with rich toasted nut undertones, and with a exuberance and lift in its finish that one will seldom encounter with this grape outside of the 2008 vintage and a cool site. I suspect this will merit attention for 12-15 years. Andre Ostertag picked most of his 2008s in the second week of October – relatively early for that vintage – and only 8-10 days behind the period during which the bulk of his 2009s were brought in. “The central problem with 2009,” observes Ostertag, “was to achieve balanced dryness in the finished wines.” (He would exempt Gewurztraminer from that comment, because he always finishes it unapologetically sweet; though here too, as my tasting notes demonstrate, something to counterbalance residual sugar was wanting.) Ostertag calls 2008 “a classic vintage, in the manner of the 1980s (decade),” and on reflection came up with the vintage analogy that had most struck me, namely to 1988.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524