The 2007 Barolo Villero is quite a bit more muscular than the Cerequio. It also appears to have handled the consistent warmth of the year better. Dark cherries, plums, menthol, spices and licorice meld together nicely in this powerful, insistent Barolo. There is plenty of energy here to support another decade of fine drinking. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2021. Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405

Fans of Boroli’s Barolo Villero will discover a new side to the popular wine with the 2007 vintage. Usually very bold and bright, this expression seems thinner, more compact and linear. The wine opens with a slightly brownish hue to its appearance and ripe notes of mature berry fruit. ——M.L.(9/1/2011)—— 89