The 2009 Chardonnay "Chosen - Onyx" is, notwithstanding the oak, nicely balanced. Comparing it to its siblings reviewed this issue, it hardly has the "unoaked" Chardonnay's demeanor or even the lighter, more invigorating touch of the "Jasper" (both reviewed this issue), but it is well put together and handles its oak quite nicely. Elegant, focused and restrained, with a certain crisp and refreshing quality, it is quite pleasing in this vintage and one of the nicer whites I've seen from the winery. It should be early maturing and at its best on the younger side, however long it holds. Drink now-2013. Binyamina, Israel's fourth largest winery, is pointing out expensive renovations (14 million euros) to the winery of late. As already noted in my last look at Binyamina releases, there already seemed to be some gradual uptick in quality here, whether or not because of the improvements. In fact, not everything could possibly have kicked in by then or by now. It will be interesting to watch going forward. The chief winemaker is Sasson Ben Aharon, since 2002. Winemaker Assaf Paz, with a degree from Bordeaux, who worked at Navarro, also produces wines for his well regarded family boutique, Vitkin. Consultant Marc Dworkin of Bordeaux fame (working with Stephan von Neipperg) lends a hand as well. In descending order of prestige, at the top Binyamina has the "Chosen" brand, from the Biblical Hoshen Stones; the regular Reserves; the Yogev ("farmer") brand, named in tribute to Binyamina's growers; and the Teva brand, which includes things like Emerald Riesling and Cabernet blush. It is the Chosen series that will be of most interest and rightly so, as they are generally nicely made and quite charming. Their problem tends to be that they can be a bit pricey for what they are. Finally, "The Cave" is Binyamina's boutique brand.Importer: Royal Wine Corp., Bayonne, NJ; tel. (718) 534-0118