The 2004 Chardonnay Onyx is the most successful of the “Chosen” wines I saw, varietally true, Burgundian-like, with some toast and nutty aromas, as well as a touch of cream early on, no doubt from the 16 months in French oak. It can seem a bit brooding at this point in its life, but its parts have integrated well. It has flavor and typicity, as well as a little intensity, and the mid-palate is elegantly constructed. The finish is quite respectable, too, at times mouth-coating. In some respects, it is its best feature. Drink now-2009. Binyamina is one of Israel’s larger and older wine producers, founded in 1952 and revitalized in 1992 when it was sold to Danny Dimbort and Avi Lerner. It produces around two million bottles a year. The Chosen label wines are denominated with gemstones chosen, according to the winery, for the "breastplate of the High Priest during the time of the Second Temple.”This is Kosher. Importer: Royal Wine Corp, Bayonne, N.J.; tel. (718) 534-0118
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