A spectacular garagiste effort from a five-acre, 45-year-old vineyard (90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon), the 2004 Bellevue Mondotte was fashioned from yields of 15 hectoliters per hectare. The result is an opaque purple-colored wine of provocative richness and intensity with an extraordinarily thick, juicy style, and unbridled amounts of creme de cassis, black cherry liqueur, a structured minerality, and sexy, toasty new oak. This full-bodied, powerful, extravagant, fascinating St.-Emilion is nearly over the top. Bottled unfined and unfiltered, and tipping the scales at nearly 14% natural alcohol, it should drink well for 20-25 years.
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