The 2005 Isola dei Nuraghi Norace is totally convincing. Heady scents of smoke, tar, licorice, new leather and dark fruit emerge from this brooding red. Sweet floral notes develop in the glass, adding freshness and verve that frame the long, exceptionally pure finish. Readers who enjoy wines with tertiary complexity will want to give the Norace a few additional years in bottle, even if it is drinking absolutely beautifully today. This is a terrific effort from Feudi della Medusa. Norace is 45% Bovale Sardo, 40% Cannonau and 15% Syrah. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2022. Feudi della Medusa stands apart from most properties in Sardinia for the distinctive, powerful style of the wines. These are seriously rich, concentrated offerings that will offer their best drinking at the dinner table. Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1461

Cannonau (50%), Syrah and Carignano make up this oak-aged blend from Sardinia. The wine exhibits ripe tones of red cherry, spice and new rubber. It’s a sharp and focused wine that imparts soft tannins and sweet spice in the mouth.——M.L.(9/1/2009)—— 90