The 2004 Isola dei Nuraghi Norace is 45% Bovale Sardo, 40% Cannonau and 15% Syrah that spent 18 months in French oak. A big, powerful red, the wine flows from the glass with layers of smoke, scorched earth, grilled herbs and cherry jam. The finish is long, sweet and pure, as notes of tar, licorice, leather and smoke make a final appearance, adding further dimensions of complexity. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016. Proprietors Heide and Francesco Siclari make intense, powerful wines from their 50 hectares of vineyards. Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1461

From the Mediterranean island of Sardinia, this ruby red exhibits dark concentration and sharp aromas of blackberry, wild berry and sophisticated Asian spice. The wine has a compact, polished nature and tastes chewy and rich thanks to its soft, spicy tannins.——M.L.(9/1/2009)—— 90