Weingut Daniel Vollenweider Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Beerenauslese, Mosel, Germany

點擊次數(shù)：3338

The 2006 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Beerenauslese represents a mere 120 liters of botrytis essence – although there is a T.B.A. that was still fermenting at the end of last summer and which I have not yet tasted. Prickly, pungent lemon zest and spice mingle with honey and white raisin in the nose. Thick in texture and loading the palate with caramel, honey, apple jelly, and peach preserves, what invigoration it offers is by way of faint salinity, but refreshment is not this wine’s destiny. Admirable purity of botrytis and flamboyant richness this certainly has, as well as that uncanny juxtaposition of viscosity and delicacy that this vintage is especially adept at mustering. But for now it’s probably hiding more complexity that it’s showing, and like so many wines in Vollenweider’s collection needs to work through a huge load of residual sugar. In theory one would have to revisit this in a few years – possibly quite a few, but it will take 20 years to shed significant sense of sweetness and well might keep for twice that long.“We started picking immediately after the October 3rd rain, and then under high pressure,” relates Daniel Vollenweider. Already then, there was little to be harvested below Auslese, not surprising considering the general trends this vintage and the fact that Vollenweider, as a friend to botryits in normal times, never sprays to keep it at bay. But in a departure from the norm, one cask had reached ten grams of residual sugar by the end of last summer and Vollenweider decided he might as well taste what a truly dry Wolfer Goldgrube Spatlese would be like! (I have not connected with the bottled wine.) A second major vineyard reclamation project in the Schimbock – a once-renowed riverside parcel within today’s Trabener Wurzgarten – is where Vollenweider intends to specialize in dry Riesling.Importer: Vineyard Research, Inc., Lunenburg, MA tel. 617 686 8052; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312; also A Bill Mayer Age of Riesling Selection Imported by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, CA; tel. (510) 549-2444