Weingut Daniel Vollenweider Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Beerenauslese, Mosel, Germany

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The 2005 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Beerenauslese – of which there are but 200 liters – picks up the pear, apricot and quince themes familiar from Vollenweider’s 2005 collection, taking them to a level of layered complexity – fresh, jellied, caramelized and dried manifestations – that is astonishing. Viscous and creamy, it nevertheless evinces a sense of lightness and lift. Honeyed and ennobled as it is, it still preserves brightness and juiciness with ripe citrus and nut cream character accompanying throughout. Delicacy, refinement and subtle saltiness inform a finish of striking purity and length. This wine displays the sort of effortless elegance that is a thing of nature human hands can only preserve or degrade. Two lots of 2005 Trockenbeerenauslese were slowly fermenting beside me as I tasted in Vollenweider’s tiny kitchen, and if the richer of the two makes it over the legal threshold to become “wine,” they will be bottled separately.Importer: Vineyard Research, Inc., Lunenburg, MA; tel. (617) 686-8052; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR; tel. (888) 274-4312; Old Vine Imports, San Francisco, CA