Vollenweider's 2008 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Spatlese gold capsule - from steep terraces in the original Wolfer Sonnenuhr vineyard - smells of apricot, lemon zest, green tea, and high-toned herbal and floral distillates. Amazingly gentle in palate impression compared with what went before in this collection, and with the utmost sense of airy delicacy, it adds Persian melon and nut oils to a consummately refreshing finish. This is frankly not the sort of enhanced levity and rarified transformation one expects when going from a wine labeled -Spatlese- to one labeled -Spatlese gold capsule,- but the effect is exhilarating. This stunningly fine Spatlese (of which there are 1,000 liters) should be worth following for a quarter-century. Given the premium Daniel Vollenweider puts on delicacy and vivacity as hallmarks of Middle Mosel Riesling, it is easy to see why he is pleased with the character of his 2008s, although in the dry echelons these wines are apt to strike many tasters as too marked by their acidity.Importers include Vineyard Research, Inc., Lunenburg, MA; tel. 617 686 8052; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR; tel. 888 274 4312; A Bill Mayer Age of Riesling Selection Imported by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, CA; tel. (510) 549 2444