It was impossible to separate out fruit from any of the top Goldgrube parcels at must weights appropriate to Spatlese, but from the ancient vines and terraces below the Wolf sundial, where the “soil” drains and dries out rapidly, and botrytis was slightly diminished, Vollenweider harvested a 2006 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Spatlese gold capsule. “This is a bit oxidative in vinification compared with my other wines,” he explains. “It fermented spontaneously and for a very long time.” The combination of vanilla cream, caramelized peach, high residual sugar, yet unmistakable minerality gives this a candied aura of salt water taffy. A plush, subtly oily texture and a long soothing finish add to the charm of a wine that would probably be best enjoyed anywhere between bottle ages 10-20, although it will never display the freshness and clarity of the “regular” Spatlese. With around 1,000 liters of high grade Auslese from each of two top sites, Volenweider was happy to be able to bottle them separately. “We started picking immediately after the October 3rd rain, and then under high pressure,” relates Daniel Vollenweider. Already then, there was little to be harvested below Auslese, not surprising considering the general trends this vintage and the fact that Vollenweider, as a friend to botryits in normal times, never sprays to keep it at bay. But in a departure from the norm, one cask had reached ten grams of residual sugar by the end of last summer and Vollenweider decided he might as well taste what a truly dry Wolfer Goldgrube Spatlese would be like! (I have not connected with the bottled wine.) A second major vineyard reclamation project in the Schimbock – a once-renowed riverside parcel within today’s Trabener Wurzgarten – is where Vollenweider intends to specialize in dry Riesling.Importer: Vineyard Research, Inc., Lunenburg, MA tel. 617 686 8052; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312; also A Bill Mayer Age of Riesling Selection Imported by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, CA; tel. (510) 549-2444