The Diel 2011 Riesling trocken Eierfels from Burgberg and Goldloch (for more on whose name and origins consult my review of the 2008 in Issue 187) displays a delightfully succulent and interactive meld of Rainier cherry, mirabelle, grapefruit, almond, fruit pit, smoky black tea and chalk dust. Wafting evocations of heliotrope and lily-of-the-valley add allure both in the nose and to the inner-mouth experience of a firm, but infectiously juicy and persistently refreshing Riesling. As Caroline Diel readily acknowledges, this bottling is rendered with an eye toward accessibility and juiciness whereas she considers her Grosse Gewachse “more mineral and more anspruchsvoll,” which can mean ambitious or challenging. In fact, they’re both. But I feel compelled to dispute a prejudice widespread among German wine growers to consider a generously-fruited dry wine inherently shallower and take it less seriously. Look for at least 6-8 years of interest from this one.
Caroline Diel is now the mother of two, but shows every intention and indication of personally staying on top of her estate’s viticulture. In collaboration with long-time cellarmaster Christoph Friedrich, she is both perpetuating and further refining the styles of wine that have come to characterize and enhance the long-standing reputation of Schlossgut Diel. Picking began in the last week of September and most of the top Rieslings were harvested already in the first week of October, by which point there was a significant amount of botrytis, happily largely noble, most of it picked-out in parallel with the fruit for the Grosse Gewachse. Wisely, I think – as heaven knows they have an austere side as is – the Diels elected for the sake of moderating alcohol to leave a bit more residual sugar behind this year than usual in their Grosse Gewachse.
Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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