From an exceptional red slate portion of the Sonnenuhr, Selbach's 2005 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese “Rotlay” displays high-toned, diverse esterous fruit distillates along with some of the same dusty, smoky manifestation of botrytis possessed by the two star Auslese from this site. Vanilla cream, apple jelly, and white peach preserve on the palate are layered with juicy citrus, spices, nut oils, salt, wet stone, and indeed all the way down to the milk chocolate end of the spectrum. The enormous sheer density and a goodly measure of bright citricity keep the botrytis from becoming bitter or fatiguing. With such multi-faceted and abundant raw material and energy, this finishes with almost inscrutable intensity. It should make a great display of itself even 30 or more years from now.
“For me, 2005 is a singular vintage in my career,” says Johannes Selbach, “in that it is ripe, multi-faceted, and has excellent acidity. You can pick any of the other recent classics – 1975, 1990 ... . Each of the benchmark years is great in its way, however here you have a combination that is fun to drink now, ten years from now, and in thirty years as well. It remains to be seen, but I think 2005 is in another league.” Readers will indeed be hard pressed this year to find another address with this many consistently outstanding wines, and when has there ever been a more diverse and at the same time magnificent array of Auslesen? In their upper reaches, the Selbach 2005s seem – like Zilliken's, but in their own unique way – to chart a trajectory beyond the normal course for their vintage. The harvest here extended from mid-October to mid-November.
Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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