Continuing an approach begun last year with their Auslese from a block called “Schmitt”, the Selbach’s harvested their 2004 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese “Rotlay” – from the best “red slate” parcel in the Sonnenuhr vineyard – in a single, late October picking. This incorporated fruit at different degrees of ripeness and botrytis infection, which would have been, as Selbach points out, “normal practice in our grandfathers’ time.” It would be misleading to say that the harvest was “not selective”, though, not only because imperfect bunches were left behind, but also because of the rigor previously gone into the pruning and green harvesting of each vine according to its abilities. The result is arguably a vivid picture of the site itself. And when one is talking about a site of this stature – sheer slate sheltered by overhanging rocks and facing the reflected heat of the Mosel (which is dammed just above Zeltingen) – it may come as no surprise that the result is one great Riesling. The layering – in both nose and mouth – of white raisin and faintly caramelized apple and dried apricot notes with bright fresh fruit and citrus is – understandably, given the single picking – even more pronounced than in the Schlossberg Auslese, but also more harmonious at this early stage. Amazingly distinct if ineffable layers of minerality emerge as well, along with meaty, musky, animal notes. The awesomely long and multifaceted finish remains both richly creamy and honeyed and also sappy and invigorating to the end, with an almost peppery concentration of mineral, spice and herbal essences. (There is, incidentally, also a “regular” 2004 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese, which I did not taste.) Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300