Felsina’s single-vineyard 2003 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia presents more overt toasted oak notes along with darker, riper fruit in a structured expression of Chianti Classico. With some time in the glass complex notes of smoke, tobacco, licorice, mint and black cherries emerge, completing this gorgeous and intensely satisfying wine. In two separate tastings I found the Rancia more complex than the Fontalloro, most likely owing to the poorer soils of the Rancia vineyard. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. Importer: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

Compared to the absolutely exuberant 1999 Rancia, the 2003 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia is slightly shut down at the moment. You can feel the ripeness of the fruit (the 2003 vintage was a scorcher) but the wine also shows softly mellow tannins and rich consistency. This vintage saw the earliest harvest in the history of the Rancia vineyard. The bouquet delivers lovely sun-ripened fruit with sweet berry and dried cherry.