Mature notes of ripe peach and apricot immediately give this dessert wine’s sunny, southern roots away. From sun-drenched Campania Felix, this is a viscous, syrupy treat with concentrated notes of fruit and nuts: almond, roasted chestnut and even a touch of peanut skin. This vintage is syrupy sweet in the mouth, but not as crisp.——M.L.(2/1/2008)—— 90