The 2005 Vosne-Romanee Cros Parantoux – all 50 cases worth of it – penetrates the nasal front with wild berry bitter-sweetness, distilled berry high-tones, pungent spice, and iodine. A huckleberry bitterness, blackberry, wet stone and charred meatiness on the palate all contribute to an amazingly dense and ripe, if somewhat severe impression. The finish bursts with salty, smoky, brightly-tart-berried flavors, bitter black chocolate, and meaty savor. Staining on the palate and bound to be a long keeper, this don’t-mess-with-me wine is a steel spring of Pinot. Between the effects of drought and of localized hail (in May, before it could effect quality) Jean-Nicolas Meo reported one of his smallest-ever harvests. His production, however, is being boosted these days by a range of negociant wines under the label “Meo-Camuzet Frere et Soeur” (marked “F&S” in the listing above). The top wines had been assembled in tank and sulfured in preparation for bottling, and were suffering a bit on account of this. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524. Also a Jean-Marie de Champs Selection (various importers), French fax 011 33 3 80 22 58 25.