Busch’s 2006 Pundericher Marienburg Riesling Auslese Fahrlay takes us to a very different – and by now welcome – place. Chartreuse-like floral and herbal essences, white raisin, blood orange, and ethereal botrytis are accompanied by only a slight nippy pungency. In the mouth a relatively cooling and invigorating combination of citrus and wet stone infiltrates the wine’s rich, creamy folds of pit fruit preserves and sheer botrytis honey. In the end, it is a struggle for the wine to support so much residual sugar, but its fascinating personality comes through. I would forget this wine for 10-12 years and then expect an equally long interval of satisfaction. Clemens Busch farms the steep slopes of the once-famous Pundericher Marienburg on the Lower Mosel entirely organically, which make him unique in the region and a source of wonder for his fellow vintners. Most of his top wines are labeled with their old pre-1971 site names. (Increasingly many growers are managing to get away with this.) Busch has been bottling nobly sweet Riesling since 1999, but never before – he hastens to inform me – in quantities remotely like those that nature imposed on him in 2006: Nine Auslesen, three Beerenauslesen, and a T.B.A.! Like Reinhard Lowenstein (and in a similar style), Busch is best-known inside Germany for his dry (or near-dry) single-site wines, which are not released for more than a year after harvest. (In fact, most of the 2006s had not finished fermenting yet when I visited last summer.)Mosel Wine Merchant selections (various importers), Trier, Gemany; fax 011 49 (0)651-14551 39; also imported by by Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR; tel. 888-274-4312