The 2005 Pundericher Marienberg Riesling Auslese Farhlay – from the lone portion of the Marienberg composed of classic Devonian blue slate – offers a measure of lime and grapefruit citricity that stimulate the palate and balance the wine’s honey, quince jelly character and high residual sugar. There is an evocative interchange of citrus, quince, and wet stone in the finish of this beauty, which incidentally improved after several days open. Also recommended: 2005 Pundericher Marienberg Riesling Spatlese trocken*** ($39.00; 86).Clemens Busch farms the steep slopes of the once-famous Pundericher Marienberg on the Lower Mosel entirely organically, which makes him unique in the region and a source of wonder for his fellow vintners. Most of his top wines are labeled with their old pre-1971 site names. (Increasingly many growers are managing to get away with this.) Best-known inside Germany for his dry wines, he has nevertheless crafted excellent nobly sweet Rieslings in the present as well. The style tends toward creaminess of texture and ripe, relatively low acidity, particularly at the dry end of the spectrum.Importer: Mosel Wine Merchant, Manhasset, NY and Trier, Germany; tel. +49 (0) 651 14551 38