Weingut Carl Loewen Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Beerenauslese, Mosel, Germany

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：2008

From an unusually briskly- and frequently-ventilated parcel, Loewen’s 2009 Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Beerenauslese is at once honeyed and caramelized as well as sharply lime-like lemony. The result is rather sweet-sour but the tension itself is stimulating and there is a purity of citrus and pit fruit preserves as well as a healthy vivacity here that contrast strikingly with the behavior of Loewen’s Eiswein of the vintage. Lime and peach preserves hang on impressively in a saliva-inducing finish. This bids fair to be worth following for 15-20 years if not longer, but I would definitely plan to monitor it within 5-7 years for signs that it is adding some complexity. Karl-Josef Loewen’s general approach – to as he puts it “make little wine from many bunches, rather than little wine from few bunches” – fits the relatively generous 2009 vintage well in principle, provided however – as he is quick to point out – one let the fruit hang long enough. “The temptation is strong – and it’s common on the Mosel – to treat (read: charcoal-fine) the botrytized musts,” notes Loewen, “be we didn’t do anything this year, and I really think that was the wisest decision I have ever made.” (Incidentally, the trio of upper-Pradikat wines of this collection for which suggested retail prices are not noted will, according to importer Terry Theise, be made available in the U.S. for any merchants whose fancy they take.)Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300